Showing posts with label Bulgaria. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bulgaria. Show all posts

Monday, January 11, 2016

The Byerley Turk

Jeremy James, author of The Byerley Turk: The True Story of the First Thoroughbred, became involved in an intense scholarly quest to trace the origins of the "first thoroughbred". His on-horse search took him via Turkey, Bulgaria, Serbia, Romania, Hungary, Austria, Germany, Belgium, France, and his native English shores, and then Ireland by car. His textual search involved a prowl across languages, particularly ancient ones—Ottoman records in Arabic script and Ottoman Turkish—as well as Polish, German, Latin, and old court French. His interest in writing this book stems to his years traveling for the International League for the Protection of Horses as an equine nutritionist, which enabled his to gather extensive information on horse breeding and intercultural methods of viewing and appreciating equine creatures.


The story begins in the Balkans, 1678, with a Tekke seyis, a Steppe tribesman who functioned as "groom", a very simplistic English translation of what his job entailed. Good augur begins with the birth of a foal on the auspicious 15th night of Shaban, in the 8th month, on the Night of Justification takes place; the timing is filled with auspicious omens, every one that sooth-sayers have been predicting in addition to other augurious omens: born in the black of a storm in torrents of water amidst thunder and torrents, with the rare Whorl of the Spurs pointing most auspiciously upwards upon his back, a blessed augury for “safety in battle”. People would kill for such an auspicious horse. The seyis somehow knowing his destiny is entwined with this horse and so emboldened dares to name his master’s horse following proper traditional naming rules—beginning with the first name of the father’s name (Ates - Fire) and having one letter of the mother’s (Zarif – Elegant) to give her honor. Thus, the seyis, awed by the omens, dared to announce the only possible name for the colt—Azarax, Son of Fire.

Three years later after the minutest care in training Azarax and his stallmate Bora, the pair of colts along with their seyis was sent to war. Beneath the fluttering Holy Standard, beneath the flying Crescent Moon, the Turk army led by the Sultan, the Grand Vizier of the Ottoman Empire, stuck out on their war horses that were to cast dung on the tiles of the Nave of St. Peter’s in Rome. Insignificant seyises look after horses after the whim of the masters and Envir Altinay Paşa, a skilled horseman, had become the seyis’s new master, and accordingly could choose among the choice horseflesh for his mounts. The seyis regarded him and intuitively knew that no matter how skilled a horse-rider this man was, he was not in communion with the horse his rode or even aware that a horse and rider must intuitively connect; the Paşa was unaware of the inner voice of horses that responded outwardly to the rider, he was a mechanical rider and could not command the spirit of a horse. When Paşa rode Az, he could not feel the fire of the horse but the resistance of disconnect, so he choose Bora as his mount. The seyis was not unhappy at the choice; Az’s destiny was yet to be revealed and such perfect horseflesh should not be wasted on such a self-filled man.

One quiet day while waiting for battle, the seyis quietly takes Az along with Bora for a run on a sandy beach. He allows Az to set the pace—from a quarter trot to extended trot, a slow canter to a slow gallop and finally of Az’s own volition a fully stretched out gallop that seems to absorb energy from the sun, the wind and the sea, and as they streak along Az stretches even further to absolute maximum velocity whereupon the seyis easily turns into the cantle-less saddle, draws his bow and releases three arrows into his last three hoof prints, the mark of a horseman archer. Two hearts, two minds, one will. No one knows the power of Az or the skill of the quiet seyis. Their destinies are still to be revealed.

In war the horse feeds on food that he would formerly have ignored. The seyis has raised his colts on diets that give strength and when he can he continues to give them fruit—figs, pomegranates, peaches and pears—he puts garlic in their barley balls to rid them of worms because he knows the secret phases of the moon and the timing of medicine. Intuitively he watered them profusely when other seyises said no, not to water a hot horse, and his horses now carried muscle and weight and did not look pinched nor parched, their tongues were not dry and their eyes had not shrunk into their skulls. “Instead their eyes glistened, their bellies were filled with the seeds of the fruit and green grass, they moved with the power of the barley, and were not consumed by the worms.” To a Persian seyis the Tekke seyis, as he mixed dates with a raw egg, barley, chopped figs, skinned pomegranates and sliced pears, said, "it is important to give the horse the best feed so that his skin radiates the shine of the inner sun.” The Persian seyis walked away shaking his head and threw a measure of barley to his horse, wondering why his horse’s coat did not glow, exude good health and feel soft to the touch.

After feeding his stallions, the seyis lay between the hooves of the horses and fell asleep, knowing that the horses would stand vigilant all night and the three of them would remain together and safe. He does not drink raki with the other seyises, he has not sword or shield and others say he will die. He does not but lives strong in tight relation with his horses who do not mingle either; they are a three-entity team. They protect each other and take confidence in their tight bond.

Turks know the history of good horseflesh, and many strong horse breeds have evolved. Azarax was a Karaman horse, lighter in bone than the Germiyan, two of the breeds that came from the Steppe many centuries before. They are tall fast horses, flat of knee and wide of forehead, with brilliant eyes, broad backs and high intelligence. They are horses of spirit and fire, of ego and pride, with hard blue feet and flashing teeth. They are afraid of nothing. Cross them and they will kill you. They are Turks, pure Turks.

But not all battles are to be won, for in every battle a side must lose, and so it was with the Ottomans. With Bora killed in the heat of battle, only the seyis and Az remained alive, the duo were even more connected. Capture. Az was captured by the British empire, the enemy. Feeling his bond and his destiny still entwined in that of Az’s, the seyis requested to go with and care for the horse. The faithful groom, connected to his horse whose destiny was perhaps starting to unfold, felt that their threads of existence were still entwined in the spiritual world. The seyis went voluntarily, loyally and ended up in England where Az was either to be sold as a breeder or to a horse track. The seyis snorted that such a destiny—the race track, a place for middlings—could not be for the great powerful war horse with such auspicious augury, born in the storm and carrying the Whorl of the Spurs.

And indeed Az’s destiny was unfolding. The seyis knew when he saw Robert Byerley that here was the man who would sever his own connection to Az but who would lead Az to his full destiny; here was the man who would control the great horse that no one other than himself had ever really had control of before. These two would be connected, and the seyis knew his own destiny and role in training this mighty horse had been fulfilled. It was time to sever their connection so that Byerley and Az could be strengthened through their new and predestined bond. Robert Byerley, the unusual leader of men and principled former Parliament Justice of the Peace who refused to sign an act that he felt was unjust, bought Azerax for £1000. Byerley was to lead his own men to war and when he rode Az on the first day, he knew that here was a horse that was superior to any he had ever ridden and perhaps ever known, and together they would be safe in their togetherness in the war.

Byerley’s horse became the darling of the greater part of the English army, and his fame traveled before him. The horse seemed to know intuitively where the cannon balls would fly and when to side-step. Cavalry men gladly followed Byerley’s horse, who fought at the forefront of battles, side-stepping with the large cavalry successfully side-stepping also. He became a mascot in England and known as the King of all Horses, Protector of the Regiment, the Horse with the Sixth Sense. He was a charm, a mascot, an augury; it was counted good luck if he walked across a person’s path and good luck if seen drinking. Fortune was to the person who would gaze into his fiery eyes.

Years passed. He retired with Byerley on his country estate. He aged and seemed to look whistfully into the past at times as if in search of his first master, the seyis, and at others as if seeing images in the future or of another realm. The Byerley Turk died in his stable on March 16th, 1703. Byerley buried him not a stone’s throw from where he died and knew that the great war horse had achieved his paradise. The Turk’s grave marker was that of a tree, to grow mighty and tall and to feed on the physical strength of the great horse that fought with vigor and pride in multiple wars and to show stature and power to future generations.

The Byerley Turk, a painting commissioned of the famous horse along with his native Turkish groomsman,
the seyis, who was captured with the mighty stallion and took care of him during their early times in England.
The seyis had completed his destiny with Azarax, the Byerley Turk. Captured by Christian forces, he escaped after seeing that Azarax’s destiny for greatness was being fulfilled, and so he returned to the Privy Stables in 1690. At the age of 37 he succeeded the baş imrahor, Master of Horse of the Ottoman Sultan in Istanbul, and was said to have taken horse breeding in the Ottoman Empire to new heights. He was killed in the second Siege of Belgrade in 1717 at the age of 57.

In 1791, James Weatherby, nephew of the first James Weatherby, first Secretary of the Jockey Club, founded in the Star and Garter Coffee House in London, published the first General Stud-book. In it, he laid down the commonly-accepted principle that all lineage of all thoroughbred racehorses could be traced to three foundation sires: The Godolphin Barb in 1729, The Darley Arabian in 1706, and the Byerley Turk in 1686.


Old Turkish horse-training methods:

The seyis stayed day and night in the field with Azarax; he lived like an animal himself, always seeing to the minutest detail of Azarax’s diet, his brushing, his care, his emotional well-being, and training him for his role as a battle horse. His role in leading Azarax to his destiny was a pure symbiosis of man and horse. Living with and game playing were crucial to the training.

Day 1 – laying his hands upon the foal and gazing into his eyes—a connection of souls
Day 2-3 – placing on a headstall, embued with the blue bead to ward off the Evil Eye of a djinn; within two days Az can be lead; teaching him not to pull; no whip or fear tactics ever used, just firm confidence, encouragement and awards; establishing an intuitive closeness with the animal
Subsequent days – riding Zarif (Az's mother) with Azarax following, increasing Az’s trust and his strength; rubbing Az’s head and praising him after crossing a river, reinforcing no fear in water
Within 1 week – a sack  loosely tied on the colt’s back; a few days later, tightened and loaded with objects that clank; the seyis at all times projects trust and the clanking pots are allowed; by the end of a week, the colt carries a kagan shield, a saucepan with stones in it, a sack stuffed with clothes and on top a puppy. The seyis walks along always projecting safety, confidence, security.
By summers end – another colt is added to the training and the seyis now is training two. Az has transferred his playful affection to Bora, the new colt. The seyis feels jealousy but does not allow these thoughts. He must train these colts, especially Az, to achieve his destiny and to do so, Az must learn to associate and interact well with horses. He is a horse; no, he is a king of a horse and must learn to be that king.
Following weeks – the two colts schooled in unfamiliar sights and sounds—waving flags, lighted fires, small firecrackers, pistol shots. Bora slightly nervous but Az seems deaf, indifferent; his spirit is splendid.
By 2 months – nothing alarms the colts, not smoke or fire, gunshot or powder; they avoid sticks and stones hurled at them, they carry saddles and follow the command of humans.
1 year – the colts are weaned by their mothers, not taken away prematurely
After weaning – stirruped saddles fitted on horses and the slight seyis steps into the saddle briefly and steps out; the colts are never overbalanced, frightened, panicked.
At 3 years of age – the colts with their seyis are ordered to report for battle duty. Out of the 1000s of horses the seyis can recognize the voice of his horses, and they among the 1000s of seyises know his. They are an intimate threesome.


Monday, December 31, 2012

New Year's Foods of East and West

Meaning of New Year's Day in the East

For Asians, particularly northeast Asians, New Year's is a time of connectedness with the family, in the present times the family refers to the nuclear family but traditionally the entire patriarchally linked extended family was part of the on-going celebrations. New Year's was a time of silence and reverence for saying goodbye reverently to the old year of sustenance and greeting the New Year with enthusiasm and the hope of abundance and good health.

Different countries in northeast Asia (China, Korea and Japan) have distinctive foods for celebrating the New Year. Following is a food item traditionally included in the New Year's celebration for greeting a New Year.

Rice cake soup in Korea

Rice cakes are an essential part of celebrations in Korean holiday festivities, birthday celebrations, weddings, ancestor veneration ceremonies, Chuseok (Thanksgiving) and of course Seollal (lunar New Year's day). Traditionally Koreans did not celebrate their individual birthdays, formerly criticized as being selfish as it reflected the western attitude of 'individualism'. Koreans traditionally celebrated their birthdays collectively on Seollal when everyone was served a bowl of rice cake soup (떡국) and after consuming the soup, everyone turned a year older together.

Osechi in Japan

In Japan it was traditional bad luck to cook during the first three days of the new year and so special boxes known as juubako (重箱) were desiged to hold special traditional foods to be eaten during those three days of reflecting on the new year. Each of the foods known as osechi-ryouri (御節料理 or お節料理) symbolize some wish for the New Year - long life, abudance in the harvest, health, and more. [For more detailed look at many of the osechi-ryouri dishes and their meanings go the blogsite Japan On-line]. Black beans in a sweetened soysauce symbolize health, anchovies symbolize abundant harvest, roe symbolize fertility and family prosperity (the meaning comes from Japanese homophonic word play) ... to name a few.


Dimsum in China

Dimsum literally means "to touch your heart." It consists of a variety of dumplings, steamed dishes and other goodies, functioning much like French hors d'oeuvres but is much more universal - they are snacks for travelers, a nibble with tea and as meals for the busy. When food is prepared for New Year's celebrations, foods have symbolic meanings usually about prosperity, good luck and counting money. Two kinds of dumplings eaten on New Year's day are jau gok ( 油角) which is believed to resemble ancient Chinese gold ingots, or wealth; similarly in northern China dumplings were prepared with "luck" inside them, and because the dumplings were small and resembled silver ingots, they represent prosperity. In the same way, the ingredients of dimsum or complimentary dishes all have wishes for the New Year. Fish (魚yú) is a homophone for "surpluses"(餘yú), leek (蒜苗/大蒜 suàn miáo/dà suàn) makes it a homophone for "calculating (money)" (算 suàn), and noodles by their appearance represent wishes for longevity.

 


Jau gok (Chinese: 油角; pinyin: yóujiăo)The main Chinese new year dumpling. It is believed to resemble ancient Chinese gold ingots (simplified Chinese: 金元宝; traditional Chinese: 金元寶; pinyin: jīnyuánbǎo)
jiaozi (dumplings) (Chinese: 餃子)Eaten traditionally in northern China because the preparation is similar to packaging luck inside the dumpling, which is later eaten. The dumpling resembles a silver ingot, or money. The symbolism is prosperity.


Jau gok (Chinese: 油角; pinyin: yóujiăo)The main Chinese new year dumpling. It is believed to resemble ancient Chinese gold ingots (simplified Chinese: 金元宝; traditional Chinese: 金元寶; pinyin: jīnyuánbǎo)
jiaozi (dumplings) (Chinese: 餃子)
Eaten traditionally in northern China because the preparation is similar to packaging luck inside the dumpling, which is later eaten. The dumpling resembles a silver ingot, or money. The symbolism is prosperity.


Foods celebrating New Year's Day in some western countries

Grapes in Mexico

For New Year's celebrations people in Mexico herald in the New Year at the stroke of midnight with 12 grapes often piled into a glass of margarita, a flute of champagnes or even sparkling cider - a sidra for toasting in the New Year and then within its first minute the hasty consumption of all 12 grapes which symbolize having luck in the upcoming 12 months (of course each grapes symbolizes a month). Festivities like in any country are not limited to food but are represented by the colors one wears when celebrating. Green clothing attracts a year of good health; red underwear brings love while yellow underwear brings wealth. But of course not all colors can be worn as the wearer must choose which is most important to him or her. But bring on the New Year and down with the 12 grapes.

Oliebollen in Holland

Oliebollen are small donuts (commonly called Dutch Donuts by Brits) which are for celebrating the New Year. Beleived to have first come from Germanic tribes in the Netherlands during the Yule (the period between December 26 and January 6), the donuts were made as an offering to the Germanic goddess Perchta and other evil spirits who were about in the mid-winter sky. To appease the spirits, food was offered. Much of the food contained deep-fried dough which was loaded with fat and thus oiling the sword of the evil Perchta so that her attacks against humans would result in the sword sliding harmlessly off the people who ate the oily bread. So not surprisingly, oliebollen literally means "oil or lard balls".


Focaccia and Banitza in Bulgaria

Ancient Romans baked their flatbreads in the ashes of the fireplace, and the name focaccia reflects this early beginning of the bread panis focacius, which is derived from the Latin focus meaning “center” and also “fireplace”, significant as the fireplace was the center of the house. Nowadays focaccia has evolved into many different kinds of breads with various seasonings and glutinous flours based on the culture where it is being baked. But in Bulgaria, focaccia has taken on a significant cultural meaning for the New Year. A coin in placed in the pan of flatbread and then once the bread has been cut and distributed, whoever gets the piece with the coin in it is said to have particularly good fortune for the coming year.


Banitza is a Bulgarian pasty made of whisked eggs, white cheese and filo pastry and can be made savory (usually) by adding spinach or leeks or even sweet for breakfast by dipping in yogurt and eating with fruit. This traditional Bulgarian bread is popular on certain occasions, particularly New Year's Eve when lucky charms such as coins or small symbolic objects like a dogwood branch with a bud for symbolizing health or longevity are hidden in the bread and found by a person who be richly blessed with New Year's luck. In more recent times, wishes written on paper notes which are wrapped in foil are hidden in the bread. Wishes for happiness, health and success throughout the New Year are most popular. 


Cotechino con lenticchie in Italy

Lentils play an important traditional for zampone and cotechino (deboned pig legs stuffed with pork rinds, sausage and spices). Lentils are a required item for celebrating New Year's Eve as the shape brings to mind tiny coins which people symbolically eat in hopes of attaining cash during the new year. The zampone and cotechino are memories of a past time of poverty when the now precious food item was invented due to a shortage of food. So together, the lentil "coins" and the memories of past poverty are iconic foods for symbolizing prosperity in the upcoming year.

  
 

I thank my students Yuna Jung and Min Jeong Kim for outlining this presentation and selecting very appropriate pictures to share as cultural examples. A note from myself on this presentation - I find it very interesting that many of the food selected are based on flour recipes. Maybe some research needs to be done on what percent of traditional celebratory foods require flour of some for the making. Could be very interesting outcome.