The History of Waffles

Surprising to many people, waffled originated in China and were so unlike what we consider waffles to be today, that we could argue, the Chinese waffles weren't waffles at all. In China, there was a shortage of eggs, milk, flour and butter, ingredients that seem indespensible for waffles now, but the Chinese made their "waffles" out of what they commonly had: beans, rice, cheese, skim milk and fried them or "baked" them over hot stones into flat cakes, much like pancakes. These first "waffles" were in fact cakes from the pan and were gridless. Over time these cakes from the pan were introduced to Europe and at some point in time, the name "waffle" was attached to the cakes. Variations of the name "waffle" are throughout northern Europe:

Germany ........ waffel
England ........ wafre
France ......... Gaufre
Netherlands .... Wafel

It wasn't until 1734 in a small restaurant in England where the waffles started to take on the gridlike appearance, and this was through one of those fortunate "accidents". On a chopping board a cook was beating a steak with a tenderizing hammer and became distracted enough to beat the meat while talking. However, when his attention was back on the job, he realized that he had instead been beating a dough wad with his hammer and the wad had the grid imprints deeply impressed in it. The dough was flattened and didn't need rolling out with a rolling pin, so the cook flung it in the pan to cook ... and there began the era of putting gridded lines on the waffle.

Waffles also changed over time in how they were served. Instead of serving them just as bread with a meal, over time sweeteners and toppings were added, perhaps to make a decorative appearance to honor someone or for festive occasions. In an case, syrups and butters were frequently added, but not to the extent that the toppings dripped ... that was an even later development.

In our modern era, waffles have become street foods, fancy dishes at ice cream parlors, or favorite orders, especially for kids, at the morning pancake houses and at family-style restaurants. And thus, new recipes have appeared and shaped waffles have come into demand, which also has called for the development of molded waffles makers.

Brussels, Liège and American-style Waffles

There are basically three kinds of waffles broadly recognized today, two kinds of Belgium waffles and the American waffle. The shaped waffles are most commonly thought of as originating from Belgium, and from within Belgium are two areas that recreated the waffle - Brussels and Liège.


The Brussels waffle is recognized by its rectangular shape. The waffle batter becomes soft but it is not particularly sweet. The toppings added are what gives it the flavor desired with syrups and fruits.


The Liège waffle is circular with outer edged un-defined. Its texture is a bit heavier than that of Brussels and so the batter becomes chewier. The batter may have caramel or vanilla added and so the topping is kept simple, just with a bit of brioche or a dusting of vanilla and pearl sugar. This particular style of waffle can be traced back to the 18th century.


And then there is the American waffle. It was introduced to the US in one of the many world fairs in New York (which one, I don't know). But as are many things introduced, the waffle was transformed by the Americans to better meet the American taste buds. And so a slightly sweet batter was desired, one that would make soft and pliable waffles. The fixed shape based on location in Belgium lost its shape pointing to its origin and the American waffle was equally popular as a square, triangle, or rectangle but one thing the Americans seemed to like is the shape needed to be clearly defined and not without definitive edges like those of Liège. Toppings were not fixed but over time, Americans have shown a strong preference for lots of drippy syrup and melted butter.




I have my students Na Jiwon and Ahn Jisung to thank for this interesting presentation on how history is intertwined with food culture. Good job, ladies!

Sailors, Disease, Injuries and Death

A fabulous read concerning women and how they helped shape history is the book Women Sailors and Sailor's Women: An Untold Maritime History by David Cordingly, former curator of paintings and head of exhibitions at the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich, England. Cordingly's initial interests were on piracy and wrote a definitive account of the age of piracy. In his extensive maritime research, he began to note the many women who played a part in the shaping of colonial maps and exploration via ships - stories that blow holes in the belief that men alone dominated the seas and exploration. And with discovering more and more instances of women playing large but little known roles in the age of sea rovings, he endeavored to share his growing collection with the public.

The following is an excerpt from the book. Although it is not specifically related to women forging history, the excerpt explains the toll the ocean played on sailors and those who waited for them. The romantic view of sailors and pirates sailing the seven seas and gaining riches is very much lacking in this descriptive view of the job hazards they very unromantically faced.

"For sailor's wives who had waited months for news of their husbands, the sailors' return was of critical concern, because all too often the sailors did not return. The great killer of seamen was not enemy action or shipwreck but disease. The figures speak for themselves. During the French Wars from 1793 and 1815, approximately 100,000 British seamen died. of this number, about 12 percent died from enemy action, shipwreck, or similar disasters; 20 percent died from accidents; and no less than 65 percent died from disease. The diseases that most afflicted seamen were scurvy, typhus, and yellow fever. Scurvy was a result of a lack of vitamin C in the diet, and it decimated crews on lengthy voyages until the recommendations of the naval surgeon Dr. James Lind were finally put into practice toward the end fo the eighteenth century. Typhus was often brought aboard ships by press-ganged men who had been confined for weeks in over-crowded and unsanitary conditions. With several hundred men crammed into a ship, it could spread rapidly, and men died horribly within two or three weeks of going down with the disease.

Even more feared by seamen and soldiers alike were the tropical fevers that made a posting to the West Indies or the tropical coast of Africa appear like a sentence of death. In 1726, an expedition to the Caribbean under Admiral Hosier lost more than 4,000 dead out of a squadron of 4,750. This was an unusally high proportion, but malignant yellow fever continued to wreak havoc among the crews of ships stationed in West Indian harbors. In 1806, William Turnbull published The Naval Surgeon, a massive volume based on his practical experience as a surgeon in the navy. He warned that the West Indies was the most unhealthy of all stations and advised captains of ships to anchor as far from land as possible. Of yellow fever, he wrote that "the first symptoms are sudden giddiness and loss of sight, to such a degree as to make the person fall down insensible." During the final stages, "the foam issues from the mouth; the eyes roll dreadfully; and the extremities are convulsed, being thrown out and pulled back in violent and quick alternate succession."

Many of the sailors who survived disease returned home with crippling injuries from shipboard accidents or wounds sustained in action. Nelson, who lost his sight in one eye during the siege of Calvi in 1794, and had his right arm amputated following a disastrous attack on Tenerife, was only the most famous of many. Disabled sailors with begging bowls were a familiar sight on the streets of London, Portsmouth, and other ports, and the naval hospitals were filled with men suffering from appalling injuries.

There is a passage in the memoirs of William Spavens that describes the state of the men in the queue for the Chatham Chest, the pension board for disabled seamen. After long service in the navy and on the East Indiamen, Spavens suffered a major injury to his right leg while handling casks in a longboat alongside his ship and had to have the limb amputated. He was in good company at Chatham. There were men swinging on crutches with a wooden leg below the knee, or above the knee, or with both legs missing. There were men with their noses shot off, or pieces torn from their cheeks, or missing their jawbones or chins. One man had his skull fractured and trepanned and a silver plate substituted for the missing bone. There were many who had lost a hand, an arm, or both arms. Some had their limbs permanently contracted by their injuries, "some with a hand off and an eye out; another with an eye out and his face perforated with grains of battle-powder, which leaves as lasting impression as though they were injected by an Italian artist." These were the shipboard accidents and the naval wars of the Napoleonic period. At the Battle of Camperdown in 1797, for instance, there were 244 men killed and 796 wounded in the British fleet alone. At Trafalgar, 1,700 men were killed and wounded in the British ships, and three times that number among the French and Spanish ships ... " (p. 239-241)

"A History of the World in 100 Objects" (book interest!)

Today Amazon. com (bless their marketing little souls!) sent me link to market what they perceive as the "Best History Books of the Year". Book hungry me just couldn't resist the history topic and upon opening the link, my eyes lit upon A History of the World in 100 Objects. Zzzing, I opened the link to read inside and leafed through the table of contents and the first chapter offered as the hook and bait. Gold, gold, gold! What a gold mine, and I immediately put the book on my Amazon wish list.

The book is well laid out in time periods with great artifacts defining those times. I'd list the 20 identified time periods but this would be very unnecessary as Wikipedia has already done the work for me here. Wikipedia further explains that the book was initially a joint project by the BBC Radio and British Museum in 100-radio series in 15-minute segments over a period of 20 weeks. The segments were presented by British Museum director Neil MacGregor, who also authors his book by the same title. His topics concerning the ancient artifacts include "art, industry, technology and arms, all of which are in the British Museum's collections". These lectures are downloadable somewhere (according to Wikipedia) and my historian-anthropological soul is all enchanted!


An example from the book:

The 'swimming reindeer' (mis-labeled in Wikipedia as a 'sleeping reindeer') is the oldest carving in the British Museum. It was found at Montrastruc, France in 1867 and is thought to be 13,000 years old, carved from the tip of a mammoth tusk during the the last Ice Age. Little is known what the Ice Age art was used for but speculations include perhaps a means of communication with the supernatural world or even a charm to guarantee a successful hunt before the onset of yet another bitterly cold Ice Age winter. The two reindeers skillfully carved into the ivory seem mythical and supernatural; however, the overlap of realism does not fall outside of the equation for interpreting the art as the following picture of a swimming reindeer clearly shows a different perspective of the animal which provided food, clothing, tools ... and even contributed to art.

Translating Cockney

The following passage is lifted from the book Shadows of the Workhouse by Jennifer Worth and is taken from "Part II: The Trial of Sister Monica Joan". To give background, in the 1950s the 90-year-old Sister Monica Joan had been accused of petty thievery in the market and then grand theft when a pile of jewels were found unaccountably in her possession. Sister Monica Joan was taken to trial and several costers (hawkers of fruit, vegies, fish, knick knacks, etc) were there to give their testimony to the light-fingeredness of the Sister. In giving testimony however in their cockney, an assistant to the court gives a very clear-cut translation and explanation on how cockney is used:

The costers were called to give evidence. They were a colourful group of seven men and one woman. The first stepped confidently into the witness box to be sworn in, giving his name as Cakey Crumb.
"Could you give your first name please?"
"Well, I've allus bin known as Cakey. Wiva name like Crumb, wha' would you expec'?"
"With what name were you christened?"
"Cuthbert."
Shrieks of laughter from the costers, which were silenced by the judge.
Counsel for the Prosecution continued: "Could you please describe your occupation?"
"... Costermonger. I 'as me own cock sparrer, an' sells in ve park its."
The judge interrupted. "Did you say you sell cock sparrows in the park its?"
"No, no m'lud. Cock sparrer is wha' we calls ve barrer an' park it is ve market."
"I see." The judge made a note. "Please go on."
"I sells ladies fings, and vis nun, she comes up to me stall an' afore you can blink an eye, she picks up a couple of bread an' cheeses, tucks 'em in her petticoats, an' is off round the Jack Horner, dahn ve frog an' toad, quick as shit off a stick. I couldn't Adam and Eve it, bu' vats wot she done. When I tells me carvin' knife wot I seen, she calls me an 'oly friar, an' says she'll land me one on m' north ad south if I calls Sister Monica Joan a tea-leaf. Very fond of Sister, she is. So I never says nuffink to no one, like."
The judge had laid down his pen long before Cakey had finished giving his evidence. "I think I am going to need an interpreter," he said.
The usher spoke, "I think I can help you, My Lord. My mother was a cockney and I was brought up with the rhyming slang. Mr Crumb has testified that he saw Sister Monica Joan take a couple of handkerchiefs - bread and cheese is the usual expression for handkerchiefs - off his sparrow, or barrow, and set off round the Jack Horner - corner, My Lord - down the frog and toad - meaning road - as quick as - I need not go on, my Lord, a harmless vulgarity implying no disrespect to Your Lordship - quick, stick - the rhyming is obvious my Lord."
"I am beginning to understand. Ingenious, very. But what was all that about Adam and Eve? We are not talking about the Garden of Eden, you know."
"'To Adam and Eve it' is a very common expression my Lord. It means 'to believe it', or the negative. Mr Crumb could not Adam and Eve the evidence of his own eyes."
"You are very knowledgeable, usher, and I am indebted to you. But that was not all the evidence Mr Crumb gave the court, and it has to be written down for the record."
The usher was standing up stiff and straight and feeling very important. All eyes were upon him. "Mr Crumb said that he told his wife what had happened. There are several expressions for wife - carving knife, trouble and strife, Duchess of Fife spring readily to mind - and she called him a liar - holy friar, My Lord, and said she would hit him in the north and south - mouth - if he called Sister Monica Joan a thief - tea-leaf was the rhyming slang used by Mr Crumb."
"I understand now. Thank you, usher." The judge turned towards Cakey. "Would you say that that interpretation is substantially correct, Mr Crumb?"
"Oh yerst, yers. That's Isle of White."
"I suppose I am correct in understand that it is ... right?" The judge looked pleased with himself and smiled at Cakey. He motioned for the Counsel for the Prosecution to continue.
"When did all this occur?"
"Abaht a year ago, I reckons."
"And you never told no one - ahem, I mean, anyone?"
"Nah, nah. I'm no' daft. There'd 'ave bin a righ' 'ole bull and cow if I 'ad. I don't want me jackdaw broke, do I?"
The judge sighed and looked towards the usher.
"Mr Crumb did not tell anyone, My Lord, because he was anxious to avert a row with his wife, whom he felt was capable of breaking his jaw."
"Is that correct, Mr Crumb?"
"Gor, not 'alf, an' all. Got an Oliver Twist like a piston, she 'as. Knock yer 'ampstead 'eafs out soon as look at yer, she would."
"Thank you, Mr Crumb, I was referring to the accuracy of the usher's translation, not to your wife's skill as a pugilist."
"Oh, I see. Well yers, 'e's got ve lingo taped an' all."
"Thank you, Mr Crumb. Usher, I should be grateful if you would attend closely to what the witness says and interpret for me, should it be necessary."
"Certainly, My Lord."
Counsel for the Prosecution continued, "Having said nothing for a year, why have you come forward now?"
"Because I earwigged some of me mates 'ad seen ve same sort of fing; vis old blackbird goin' round ve markets, lookin' all 'oly like, bu' pinchin' fings off stalls and then scarperin'. So we goes to ve grasshoppers, an vey took it to ve garden gate."
"I understand your evidence as far as the grasshoppers, Mr Crumb," the judge interrupted. "Usher, perhaps you could enlighten me as to the meaning of the last sentence?"
"Grasshopper, My Lord, is rhyming slang for copper, which Your Lordship may know is a colloquialism for the police. And the police referred the case to the magistrate - the garden gate."
"I understand." The Judge turned to Mr Crumb. "If the police are grasshoppers and magistrates are garden gates, what, may I enquire, is a judge?" he asked politely.
"Barnaby Rudge, m'lud."
"Hmmm. Not too bad. Could have been worse, I suppose. We might have gone down in local terminology as a pile of sludge, or something equally unsavoury. All things considered, I think we have been let off quite lightly. Counsel, do you have any further questions?"
"No, My Lord."
Cakey Crumb stepped down from the witness box, and a costerwoman took his place ..."

by Jennifer Worth in Shadows of the Workhouse, (2005) p 186-8.